March 24, 2011
First things first, we are safe and sound from the earthquake in Thailand, having felt only some violent shaking, or was that just a bumpy tuk-tuk ride...yup. Another natural disaster averted, we didn't feel a single shimmy or a shake.
We are now in Laos. We had read some major bus horror stories about the 24hr border crossing from Hanoi, Vietnam, to Vientiane, Laos, but in fact, we had the best bus ride in history. We scored the back seats, the ones with extra leg room and Q took on the role of "big spoon" with his Vietnamese neighbor.
On the bus we met another couple from Edmonton, Adam and Stacey, and have enjoyed their company for the past 5 days.
We spent a few days in Vientiane, the bustling capital city, with a population totaling a whopping 200,000.
We rented scooters and hit the dusty trail (literally) to tour COPE and Buddha Park.
COPE (Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise), is an organization that works in cooperation with the Laos Ministry of Health and rehabilitation centers across the country to develop rehabilitation services, provide aids and prosthetic devices free of charge for those who require them and educates the public on UXO's (Unexploded Ordinance) as 30% of their clients are victims of UXO's.
Why is there a problem with UXO's in Laos you ask? I wondered this very question myself. Well... during the Vietnam war, Laos was devastated by "The Secret War", when the US carpet bombed the eastern side of Laos in attempts to attack the presence of the North Vietnamese. A statistic we read was that more bombs were dropped on Laos than in all of WW II. If that isn't bad enough, approximately 30% (80 million) of these "cluster bombs" failed to explode on impact and they remain littered across the country side, impeding this counties development since much of the land is unusable, not to mention the lives that are continually damaged and lost when someone comes across a UXO. We learned at COPE that education is so important since the lucrative metal trade in China has caused people in this impoverished country to seek out UXO's in hopes of making some money. Often children either think the smaller bombs are toys and mistakenly pick them up or they want to help provide for their family and they know that metal equals money. Our visit at COPE was informative, inspiring and touched our hearts deeply.
We instantly fell in love with Laos. The people are quiet and kind, there's no hassling (the guide book wasn't lying when it said "the Thai tuk-tuk driver would take you to your destination via a silk shop, the Vietnamese tuk-tuk driver would almost run you over, while you'd have to find the Lao driver, wake him up and then persuade him to drive you"). There's a peacefulness about the culture and subsistence village life remains the norm. The rugged landscape is gorgeous with clean rivers crossing through checkered farmland with huge rock spires covered in lush green forest intermingled amongst it all. And maybe best of all, they have fantastic bakeries due to the history of French influence. We've spent much of our Laos budget indulging in baked goods.
We are now in Vang Viang, a town seemingly plucked right out of Koh San Rd- Bangkok, it's a major tourist trap. A step just out of the town limits puts you right in rice paddies and wooden farm huts, but within the town are guesthouses, DVD stores, shops selling "Tubing Vang Viang" t-shirts and numerous bars and restaurants. It doesn't seem to fit in to Laos' quiet reputation and we have indulged in the "western comforts".
The big attraction is the river which is lined with bars sporting trapeze swings, slides, ziplines and mud-pits. They market it as "tubing the Vang Viang"! The catch is, no body actually makes it down river in their tube instead they just get caught up at the bars until dark and end up walking to the nearest road to catch a tuk-tuk, toting the tube and all.
Our first day on the river, we were the unsuspecting rookies who still rented the tubes. On round two we wised up, ditched the tubes and thanks to our friend Adam, who constucted some poles, we even introduced Vang Viang to the game of beers-bee!
There are a few other pursuits in town, multiple caves and The Blue Lagoon, a tranquil Eden on a clear blue river, to name a couple.
Q was able to get his first straight razor shave at a little hole in the wall....actually there was no wall, shop along the side of the road. The small shop consisted of an old barber chair and mirror, two roosters in bamboo cages and a lady cutting sugar cane with a machete.... It's quite funny what becomes the norm after over two months here in SE Asia.
Sadly, we are running out of time and we must move on. Today we head to Luang Pranbang, a city in the middle of Laos which is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Saturday, March 26, 2011
Thursday, March 17, 2011
March 17, 2011
Another night bus under the belt..... and yep they still suck. The good news is we were able to book the back seats so we could stretch out, we had four seats to ourselves. The bad news is the road was rough as hell and as usual the driver insisted on honking the horn every 10 seconds...and to make the ride even better the Vietnamese haven't seemed to master the art of soft braking or gentle accelerating. Every time this happened we would slide all over the seats like we were sleeping on a slip and slide.
13 hrs later we arrived safely in Hoi An!
Hoi An was definitely a breath of fresh air and a great place to spend the next four days. We stayed within the old quarter which was established 150 yrs ago as an international trading port. Not only is the old town steeped with tradition, it is also the best place in the country to get custom made clothing. The city is very pedestrian friendly, completely opposite to the rest of Vietnam, so we rented bikes and spent the next four days cycling around with no agenda at all. The streets are lined with old French style buildings filled with tailoring shops or art galleries, Chinese lanterns hang from the trees, some roads are closed to motorized vehicles and music plays into the bustling streets to lull the pace of the town. A very romantic ambience.
A couple that we had met in Thailand, recommended the tailor that they used so we headed there to see what we could get made. Rye had printed off a bunch of dress pictures from the internet and within an hour, had chosen the material and been measured up for 5 of them. While I was watching all of this, I decided that I might get a suit made. The women who ran the store were amazing. They could honestly make anything that you wanted and not only that, but they had 5 dresses, 2 winter coats, a three piece suit and four dress shirts ready for our first fitting in less than a day. A few minor adjustments later and we walked out of there with the above bounty, all custom tailored for us.
With recharged batteries we continued our northern journey and hopped on a train to Hue. The three hour train ride is considered one of the most breathtaking sections of the Vietnamese railway and while the bus would have been faster, the train was an excursion we were glad not to have missed. For three hours the train snaked through fields of rice paddies, and jungle-filled mountains high above the coast on the Gulf of Tonkin.
We spent the next two days in the city of Hue, one of the Vietnams cultural centers with history dating back to the early 1700's. It also saw some of the fiercest fighting during the Vietnam war given its proximity to the demilitarized zone.
We visited the Citadel, a former imperial city,which was used to house the emperor and royal family. Due to the heavy bombing during the war, much of the city was destroyed and for years after the war this treasure was left to slowly disintegrate. Recently the Citadel was deemed a Unesco World Heritage site and has since has seen some major restoration work.
A quick 12 hr night bus later, we arrived in the small city of Ninh Binh. The bus ride was surprisingly painless in comparison to the previous ones so I'm sure to everyones disappointment we have no horror stories to report... thank god... We were due for a good one.
We had stopped in Ninh Binh to visit a place called Tam Coc, which is described as Halong Bay among the rice fields. In true Rye and Q fashion, we passed on the organized tours and found our own way to the site. We rented a scooter but were stopped only a few blocks away....out of fuel (not surprisingly as owners siphon the remaining gas out of rental scooters to put in their own bikes). We pushed the scooter back to our guesthouse where they luckily had a pop bottle of petrol that we bought........so off again. Well this scooter was a real gem. The fuel filter was so plugged up that it felt like something running with the choke on, lunging forward, unable to fully accelerate. With our prime piece of Vietnamese craftsmanship, with a top speed of 20 km/hr, we made our way to Tam Coc 12 km away. The best way to see this area is to have a local paddle you around so we went to the wharf and hopped in a small boat. For the 2 hrs we were paddled through rice fields around limestone spires and through caves. The whole experience was incredible until we got to the half-way point....
At the turn around point there are boats with local woman selling drinks and snacks so rye decided to buy a pineapple. The lady proceeded to hand us a beer and cookies saying that our driver was tired and thirsty from rowing us around. Caught a little off guard we looked at the driver who was nodding "yes" so we bought him a drink and cookies no problem right?.... Well they were a little pricy, which wasn't the issue, but what really pissed us off was that we later found out that the drivers don't eat or drink the snacks but instead give them back to the ladies, split the profit and sell them again the next day. We found this out after we were finished the boat trip but what put us over the top was when he was just about to drop us off he turned and said "tip, tip?" I must add that even though we bought the snacks for him we had decided to give him a tip, an exceedingly generous one at that as we had no smaller change, but had he actually just asked for a tip?... we were a little shocked but disgruntingly handed him the money. Once we were off the boat we replayed the events of the entire afternoon.
I guess we are use to Canada where no one would dare ask for a tip especially after being bought a drink and snack. Now it most certainly isn't the money by any means, it's the principle. Live and learn I guess.
To top off our day, the ride home on the scooter was even more interesting. Picture this... 2 tourists on a scooter at a busy intersection, among hundreds of locals seemingly fed up with our amateur scooter skills. Riley walks across the intersection for fear of not making it on the scooter, while Q rides the bike, determined to get it to work. The scooter periodically lurches forward and eventually crosses the halfway point of the intersection when it stalls completely. Q is able to use his momentum and the slight down hill grade of the road to coast the remaining distance while Riley safely watches from the sidewalk. Amazingly, Q refrains from ripping off his helmet
and throwing it, but the look on his face was priceless.
After those two days in Ninh Binh we again headed north in search of better weather and rejuvenated spirits. Although every guesthouse and restaurant sell Halong Bay packages we decided we would try to piece this one together and get there on our own. Another bus ride later we arrived in Haiphong, a very large working city with very little in the way of visitor infrastructure. We had planned to stay the night and try to get things sorted out for the boat trip to Halong Bay, but after walking around for what felt like hours looking for a place to stay with little to no luck (every place listed in the guide book was out of business) we headed to the pier. A couple of hours later we were boarding a boat to the island of Cat Ba within Halong Bay.
The boat was in the same class as the Tongan ferry and with the continuing rain proved to be a long, wet three hours. The boat had walls and doors but most of the windows were stuck open so by the end of the trip there was a little river of water sloshing around inside of the cabin.... we'll just say rain jackets were just as much a necessity inside as out.
We arrived safely and after finding a place (we paid the extra 3 dollars for heat) we settled in for the evening and just watched tv.
We booked tickets for a tour of Halong Bay, an area consisting of 3000 limestone islands jutting out of the sea. These vegetated islands are dotted with innumerable grottos and caves which make for some spectacular scenery. Again the day was met with rain which in a way was nice because it kept the number of tourists and junk boats (old Chinese style boats found throughout the bay) to a minimum. We had seen pictures of endless congo-like lines of boats snaking through the islands, but with the foul weather the entire area was left for us and one other boat.
Within the numerous bays are little settlements of floating houses that have been built on top of plank topped plastic barrels. The people who live on the water survive on fish farming and oyster/pearl harvesting. After a day on the boat we were froze to the bone and decided to set out on a hunt for a jacuzzi. Sadly, each hotel we visited reported their jacuzzis and saunas weren't working so we settled for a hot shower instead.
Today brings us to Hanoi. Now I know we shouldn't complain to everyone at home about the cold, especially given the winter you've had, but rainy, 10 degree weather in a country that rarely has heated vehicles or buildings makes for some chilly traveling. We will never again take for granted the luxury of central heating :)
Another night bus under the belt..... and yep they still suck. The good news is we were able to book the back seats so we could stretch out, we had four seats to ourselves. The bad news is the road was rough as hell and as usual the driver insisted on honking the horn every 10 seconds...and to make the ride even better the Vietnamese haven't seemed to master the art of soft braking or gentle accelerating. Every time this happened we would slide all over the seats like we were sleeping on a slip and slide.
13 hrs later we arrived safely in Hoi An!
Hoi An was definitely a breath of fresh air and a great place to spend the next four days. We stayed within the old quarter which was established 150 yrs ago as an international trading port. Not only is the old town steeped with tradition, it is also the best place in the country to get custom made clothing. The city is very pedestrian friendly, completely opposite to the rest of Vietnam, so we rented bikes and spent the next four days cycling around with no agenda at all. The streets are lined with old French style buildings filled with tailoring shops or art galleries, Chinese lanterns hang from the trees, some roads are closed to motorized vehicles and music plays into the bustling streets to lull the pace of the town. A very romantic ambience.
A couple that we had met in Thailand, recommended the tailor that they used so we headed there to see what we could get made. Rye had printed off a bunch of dress pictures from the internet and within an hour, had chosen the material and been measured up for 5 of them. While I was watching all of this, I decided that I might get a suit made. The women who ran the store were amazing. They could honestly make anything that you wanted and not only that, but they had 5 dresses, 2 winter coats, a three piece suit and four dress shirts ready for our first fitting in less than a day. A few minor adjustments later and we walked out of there with the above bounty, all custom tailored for us.
With recharged batteries we continued our northern journey and hopped on a train to Hue. The three hour train ride is considered one of the most breathtaking sections of the Vietnamese railway and while the bus would have been faster, the train was an excursion we were glad not to have missed. For three hours the train snaked through fields of rice paddies, and jungle-filled mountains high above the coast on the Gulf of Tonkin.
We spent the next two days in the city of Hue, one of the Vietnams cultural centers with history dating back to the early 1700's. It also saw some of the fiercest fighting during the Vietnam war given its proximity to the demilitarized zone.
We visited the Citadel, a former imperial city,which was used to house the emperor and royal family. Due to the heavy bombing during the war, much of the city was destroyed and for years after the war this treasure was left to slowly disintegrate. Recently the Citadel was deemed a Unesco World Heritage site and has since has seen some major restoration work.
A quick 12 hr night bus later, we arrived in the small city of Ninh Binh. The bus ride was surprisingly painless in comparison to the previous ones so I'm sure to everyones disappointment we have no horror stories to report... thank god... We were due for a good one.
We had stopped in Ninh Binh to visit a place called Tam Coc, which is described as Halong Bay among the rice fields. In true Rye and Q fashion, we passed on the organized tours and found our own way to the site. We rented a scooter but were stopped only a few blocks away....out of fuel (not surprisingly as owners siphon the remaining gas out of rental scooters to put in their own bikes). We pushed the scooter back to our guesthouse where they luckily had a pop bottle of petrol that we bought........so off again. Well this scooter was a real gem. The fuel filter was so plugged up that it felt like something running with the choke on, lunging forward, unable to fully accelerate. With our prime piece of Vietnamese craftsmanship, with a top speed of 20 km/hr, we made our way to Tam Coc 12 km away. The best way to see this area is to have a local paddle you around so we went to the wharf and hopped in a small boat. For the 2 hrs we were paddled through rice fields around limestone spires and through caves. The whole experience was incredible until we got to the half-way point....
At the turn around point there are boats with local woman selling drinks and snacks so rye decided to buy a pineapple. The lady proceeded to hand us a beer and cookies saying that our driver was tired and thirsty from rowing us around. Caught a little off guard we looked at the driver who was nodding "yes" so we bought him a drink and cookies no problem right?.... Well they were a little pricy, which wasn't the issue, but what really pissed us off was that we later found out that the drivers don't eat or drink the snacks but instead give them back to the ladies, split the profit and sell them again the next day. We found this out after we were finished the boat trip but what put us over the top was when he was just about to drop us off he turned and said "tip, tip?" I must add that even though we bought the snacks for him we had decided to give him a tip, an exceedingly generous one at that as we had no smaller change, but had he actually just asked for a tip?... we were a little shocked but disgruntingly handed him the money. Once we were off the boat we replayed the events of the entire afternoon.
I guess we are use to Canada where no one would dare ask for a tip especially after being bought a drink and snack. Now it most certainly isn't the money by any means, it's the principle. Live and learn I guess.
To top off our day, the ride home on the scooter was even more interesting. Picture this... 2 tourists on a scooter at a busy intersection, among hundreds of locals seemingly fed up with our amateur scooter skills. Riley walks across the intersection for fear of not making it on the scooter, while Q rides the bike, determined to get it to work. The scooter periodically lurches forward and eventually crosses the halfway point of the intersection when it stalls completely. Q is able to use his momentum and the slight down hill grade of the road to coast the remaining distance while Riley safely watches from the sidewalk. Amazingly, Q refrains from ripping off his helmet
and throwing it, but the look on his face was priceless.
After those two days in Ninh Binh we again headed north in search of better weather and rejuvenated spirits. Although every guesthouse and restaurant sell Halong Bay packages we decided we would try to piece this one together and get there on our own. Another bus ride later we arrived in Haiphong, a very large working city with very little in the way of visitor infrastructure. We had planned to stay the night and try to get things sorted out for the boat trip to Halong Bay, but after walking around for what felt like hours looking for a place to stay with little to no luck (every place listed in the guide book was out of business) we headed to the pier. A couple of hours later we were boarding a boat to the island of Cat Ba within Halong Bay.
The boat was in the same class as the Tongan ferry and with the continuing rain proved to be a long, wet three hours. The boat had walls and doors but most of the windows were stuck open so by the end of the trip there was a little river of water sloshing around inside of the cabin.... we'll just say rain jackets were just as much a necessity inside as out.
We arrived safely and after finding a place (we paid the extra 3 dollars for heat) we settled in for the evening and just watched tv.
We booked tickets for a tour of Halong Bay, an area consisting of 3000 limestone islands jutting out of the sea. These vegetated islands are dotted with innumerable grottos and caves which make for some spectacular scenery. Again the day was met with rain which in a way was nice because it kept the number of tourists and junk boats (old Chinese style boats found throughout the bay) to a minimum. We had seen pictures of endless congo-like lines of boats snaking through the islands, but with the foul weather the entire area was left for us and one other boat.
Within the numerous bays are little settlements of floating houses that have been built on top of plank topped plastic barrels. The people who live on the water survive on fish farming and oyster/pearl harvesting. After a day on the boat we were froze to the bone and decided to set out on a hunt for a jacuzzi. Sadly, each hotel we visited reported their jacuzzis and saunas weren't working so we settled for a hot shower instead.
Today brings us to Hanoi. Now I know we shouldn't complain to everyone at home about the cold, especially given the winter you've had, but rainy, 10 degree weather in a country that rarely has heated vehicles or buildings makes for some chilly traveling. We will never again take for granted the luxury of central heating :)
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
Vietnam!!!!!
At least we had helmets?
Rice drying on the side of the road in Mekong Delta
Once it hits your lips....
Table top BBQ, delicious!
Manocanhs...well sort of.
Floating market along the Mekong River
Drive-thru
Just a quick fix in Saigon
Yogun fruz!!
Cu Chi Tunnels, this one was made 30% larger for tourists to crawl through....haha
Rooftop lounge, Saigon
A rainy day in paradise...still paradise, Nha Trang
Our last week in Cambodia
Our beach bungalow on Koh Rong (we took turns in the hammock)
You going my way?
Proof of the baby onboard
Day trip to Bokor Hill Palace, Kampot
Koh Rong island
Our "treehouse" just off the beach
All you need is a helmet, shirt and fishing pole
Cambodian row boats
Deadliest Catch - South China Sea
So long Cambodia, we'll miss you!
Monday, March 7, 2011
Good Morning Vietnam!
March 8, 2011
We entered Vietnam 7 days ago and I really don't know where the time has gone.
The plan has been to make our way along the coast from south to north starting in the city of Can Tho and ending in Hanoi.
Unfortunately we have managed to fall a bit behind on our time line so we are forced to cover a lot of distance in a short span of time.
We crossed the border by bus, a trip that we were told would take approximately 4 hours. Eleven hours later we arrived in Can Tho. The extended drive was not all that bad at first. We drove through rice lined roads in the country side and witnessed the ox and water buffalo at work, pulling wooden carts heaping with plump rice sacks. The country side certainly fit the bill of what I imagined Vietnam to look like.
We changed buses in Chau Doc and in keeping with tradition, this bus ride was another adventure. For a minivan built to seat 16 people, the Vietnamese defied normalcy and managed to squeeze in 22 people. At one point there was 6 people in the front bench alone. Luckily for us, but not necessarily fair, they evacuated the previously occupied back seat for 4 of us tourists and never squeezed anyone else on the seat. It was by no means a comfortable journey, but compared to the locals, we were in the lap of luxury.
We really enjoyed Can Tho. It's a busy city, but you can escape the hustle and bustle at the riverside while dining on food cooked on a Vietnamese BBQ or sipping on a sweetened ice coffee. In our guest house we saw our first snake and frog kept in an aquarium that were also listed in the menu.....we did not indulge.
We also enjoyed the floating market where vendors sold all types of produce on wooden boats of all shapes and sizes.
From Can Tho it was off to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). And we thought the traffic was hectic in the rest of SE Asia...Wow! Human Frogger across 6 lanes of traffic. (I, Riley, have never heard of Frogger, but Q insists that most of you will get the analogy)
Here we submersed ourselves in city life. Visiting parks and museums, negotiating the markets, tasting local cuisine and splurging on fancy drinks served on a roof top patio overlooking the city. (splurging = $6 since a beer usually costs about .50 cents)
We also took in the Cu Chi tunnels, a section of underground tunnels spanning 250 kms which previously housed the Viet Cong. It was a fact filled day of the history of the Vietnam War.
Prior to coming to this country, numerous other travelers had warned us that the people in Vietnam weren't as warm and friendly as other areas of SE Asia. This hasn't at all been our experience. On our last day in Saigon we spent the better part of a rainy afternoon chit chatting with university students who simply wanted to practice their English. In return, they were happy to answer our many questions about their culture, their government etc. and were a wealth of knowledge for us.
To get to our next city, Nah Trang, it required an overnight bus trip. We were a little gun shy from our last overnighter experience, but our alternative options were limited. We went with it and were pleasantly surprised. Although Q is a little too long for the asian sized beds, poor guy, after his fix of Gravol, he slept like a baby. I was able to curl up with a blanket and sleep relatively well also.
We arrived to rain in Nah Trang, so the city felt a little dull. We planned to leave after only one night, but once the sun came out, our minds quickly changed. The beaches are fabulous and life just moves a little slower here. Definitely more our style. After napping, sunning ourselves and Q taking on some massive waves with more ease than David Haselhoff, we are forced to move north to Hoi An due to lack of time. Tonight we will face, head on, another overnight bus trip.
We entered Vietnam 7 days ago and I really don't know where the time has gone.
The plan has been to make our way along the coast from south to north starting in the city of Can Tho and ending in Hanoi.
Unfortunately we have managed to fall a bit behind on our time line so we are forced to cover a lot of distance in a short span of time.
We crossed the border by bus, a trip that we were told would take approximately 4 hours. Eleven hours later we arrived in Can Tho. The extended drive was not all that bad at first. We drove through rice lined roads in the country side and witnessed the ox and water buffalo at work, pulling wooden carts heaping with plump rice sacks. The country side certainly fit the bill of what I imagined Vietnam to look like.
We changed buses in Chau Doc and in keeping with tradition, this bus ride was another adventure. For a minivan built to seat 16 people, the Vietnamese defied normalcy and managed to squeeze in 22 people. At one point there was 6 people in the front bench alone. Luckily for us, but not necessarily fair, they evacuated the previously occupied back seat for 4 of us tourists and never squeezed anyone else on the seat. It was by no means a comfortable journey, but compared to the locals, we were in the lap of luxury.
We really enjoyed Can Tho. It's a busy city, but you can escape the hustle and bustle at the riverside while dining on food cooked on a Vietnamese BBQ or sipping on a sweetened ice coffee. In our guest house we saw our first snake and frog kept in an aquarium that were also listed in the menu.....we did not indulge.
We also enjoyed the floating market where vendors sold all types of produce on wooden boats of all shapes and sizes.
From Can Tho it was off to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). And we thought the traffic was hectic in the rest of SE Asia...Wow! Human Frogger across 6 lanes of traffic. (I, Riley, have never heard of Frogger, but Q insists that most of you will get the analogy)
Here we submersed ourselves in city life. Visiting parks and museums, negotiating the markets, tasting local cuisine and splurging on fancy drinks served on a roof top patio overlooking the city. (splurging = $6 since a beer usually costs about .50 cents)
We also took in the Cu Chi tunnels, a section of underground tunnels spanning 250 kms which previously housed the Viet Cong. It was a fact filled day of the history of the Vietnam War.
Prior to coming to this country, numerous other travelers had warned us that the people in Vietnam weren't as warm and friendly as other areas of SE Asia. This hasn't at all been our experience. On our last day in Saigon we spent the better part of a rainy afternoon chit chatting with university students who simply wanted to practice their English. In return, they were happy to answer our many questions about their culture, their government etc. and were a wealth of knowledge for us.
To get to our next city, Nah Trang, it required an overnight bus trip. We were a little gun shy from our last overnighter experience, but our alternative options were limited. We went with it and were pleasantly surprised. Although Q is a little too long for the asian sized beds, poor guy, after his fix of Gravol, he slept like a baby. I was able to curl up with a blanket and sleep relatively well also.
We arrived to rain in Nah Trang, so the city felt a little dull. We planned to leave after only one night, but once the sun came out, our minds quickly changed. The beaches are fabulous and life just moves a little slower here. Definitely more our style. After napping, sunning ourselves and Q taking on some massive waves with more ease than David Haselhoff, we are forced to move north to Hoi An due to lack of time. Tonight we will face, head on, another overnight bus trip.
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